1) How did Bulgaria and its wines get on your radar?
Social media is a powerful tool these days, and a chance Instagram “meeting” with Marin Atanasov, one of Bulgaria’s top wine ambassadors from BMO World Wines, piqued my already budding curiosity. His excitement and love of his homeland is infectious and I couldn’t help but jump at the opportunity to learn more about these elusive Bulgarian wines he kept telling me about.
The Balkan Peninsula is home to so many influential wine regions, including Croatia, where the Zinfandel grape hails from, and Greece, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. It only makes sense that surrounding areas would be considered as potentially successful regions. Although we have limited exposure to these wines or to extensive information on the region, it’s my opinion that Bulgaria should be on every wine enthusiast’s radar.
2) What makes Bulgaria a unique wine producing region in your experience? Which wines strike you as something you had never tasted before?
The Bulgarian wine industry has persevered through the same difficulties and setbacks as almost every other wine region in the world; to name a few, Phylloxera, World Wars, Communism, and even its own version of Prohibition. For a moment, let’s forget those “hiccups” in history, and focus on the country’s geographical location alone. If we look at it purely through an agricultural lens, Bulgaria is saturated with ideal conditions and presents endless possibilities for reviving its once-thriving wine industry.
Located around the 43rd parallel, Bulgaria shares a similar seasonal and diurnal swing as the renowned regions of Piedmont (Italy), Bordeaux (France), and the Willamette Valley (US). With a continental climate, it is also in close proximity to The Black Sea, producing the desired Mediterranean and coastal influences that help regulate grape quality. This also brings a degree of minerality and complexity into the wines. Pair this with rich soil variations of clay, limestone, loss, and granite, and you have an ecological diversity capable of producing a variety of styles and expressions; as seen in some of its indigenous varietals like Rubin, Mavrud, Tamianka, and well, that takes us to the next question…
3) Tell us about your experience with the country's indigenous varietals?
I was blown away by the range and quality of many Bulgarian varietals I’d never heard of before. I’ll refrain from listing all of them here, but I’ll do my best to highlight a few of my favorites.
Let’s start with Rubin. This grape is a hybrid of Nebbiolo and Syrah, which in their own right, command great respect. Typical characteristics of Rubin are baked black fruit, pepper, tar, and spice; very similar to wines of its parent grapes from Piedmont and the Northern Rhone. I still dream about the 2015 Rubin we tried from Bratanov Winery in Sakar. It has an elevated alcohol content at 15.7%, which often can overpower a wine, but this beauty was softened by time in Bulgarian oak, and had an alluring length, and complexity. I’m already scheming on how to get more Rubin!
Next is Mavrud, a truly intriguing black grape varietal. It pulls you in with a mysterious name, then spins you around and keeps you guessing. Our first experience was a funky fresh sparkling wine, with searing acidity and jolly-rancher style fruit, like the 2017 Georgiev/Milkov “Funky Mavrud” Pet-Nat, which we enjoyed on our first night in Plovdiv at Vino Culture. We also experienced fuller, richer, earthier expressions of the grape, like in the Bulgarian Heritage 100% Mavrud from Karabunar Winery, exhibiting rich, dark fruit, with integrated tannins. I can’t wait to see more of what this varietal has to offer over time.
It is also common to see blends of Mavrud and Rubin, like the 2013 Monogram from Villa Yustina. These 2 grapes together have the potential to pack a powerful punch, but 16 months in neutral Bulgarian oak transforms this blend into a truly elegant wine. With notes of black fruits, game, and spice, this wine signifies a true evolution in quality and style, giving us a glimpse into this new era of Bulgarian wines.
Melnik 55 is yet another rocking black grape varietal. This grape is actually a crossing of the local Broad Leafed Melnik and French Valdiguie, also known as Napa Gamay and Gamay 15 in California. We tried a few variations of the grape. The Nomad Spirit from Via Verde Wines is a stunning blend of Melnik 55, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, showing earthy and forest floor-like qualities, coupled with silky red fruit, and an elegant finish. The single varietal that I really fell for was the 2015 Gramatik from Rupel Winery near the Struma River. Made with 100% Melnik 55, this showstopper was aged six months in French and American Oak, and sings of red and black berries, earth, and spice, with a velvety finish. Beautifully balanced with great complexity, this gem reminded me of a fuller, more complex version of Cru Beaujolais, which is not surprising, given the heritage of vine.
Moving onto white grape varietals, we have Vratchanski Misket, also known as Vratsa Misket. This vibrant varietal makes up less than 1% of plantings in the country, but not for lack of potential. It has beautiful acidity and notes of citrus and herbs, similar to Gruner Veltliner, but with more tropical qualities and a lingering viscosity. I love bright, crisp whites, but when you combine those flavors with a long finish, and fuller mouthfeel, it puts me over the edge; as was the case with the 2017 Vratchanski Misket from Salla Estate Winery in Blascovo. So good!
Last is Tamianka, an aromatic varietal capable of a wide range of styles. The grape first struck me in the flagship 2016 Tamianka from Bratanov Winery, with hints of smoke and minerality, and a beautiful, waxy finish. However, a very special treat of a tank sample of the 2015 Late Harvest Tamianka from the same producer really spoke volumes for the grape’s potential. Full bodied and nutty, with notes of honey and apricot, this juice is well on its way to rivaling iconic dessert wines.
4) Bulgaria is known for producing great Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot. Were there any other international varietals that grabbed your attention?
A few international varietals stood out, starting with Cabernet Franc. It doesn’t hurt that I love Cab Franc in general, but this grape was truly an ambassador for expressions of terroir in Bulgaria. While staying consistent with varietal characteristics of green pepper and pyrazine, the Cabernet Franc from the South Sakar region, near the Turkish and Greek border, show riper, more jammy styles, while those from the North West show pure, fruit driven expressions, with just a touch of red pepper. Then in the cooler North East, along the Black Sea, you find fresher, more elegant styles, showing black currant and even green paprika.
Another stand out international varietal was Riesling. We tried a gorgeous Pet-Nat from Tsarev Brod in the Shumen district. Fermented 14 days in the bottle with very limited dosage, this dry sparkler sang of fresh pear, peach, and kiwi, with a delightfully creamy texture, and screams for summertime beach sipping. The Sauvignon Blanc from the same producer also showed beautiful typicity of the Black Sea Coast, with soft citrus, and herbal minerality, reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc from Touraine.
Which brings me to another expression of Sauvignon Blanc that stole my heart! Orange wines are really trending right now, particularly within the natural wine community. Orange wines are made by allowing white grape varietals to remain in contact with their skins during fermentation; a process normally used for red wine production only. The effect is a funky wine with intense aromatics and a complex palate. Villa Melnik is right on trend with their 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Orange Wine. Fermented for two weeks on the skins and aged on the lees for four weeks, this wine smelled of peach, apricot, and canned pears, with a super silky finish. Not only was the wine vibrant and delicious, but the label depicts a lady swinging freely from an orange moon, and was by far my favorite of the trip
Finally we get to Chardonnay. One of our final vineyard visits was with Chateau Burgozone overlooking the Danube River, where we were presented with a gorgeous line up of wines, but the 2015 Collection Barrel Fermented Chardonnay was the shining star. Their 2010 vintage Chardonnay was the first wine ever in Bulgaria to be awarded the Great Gold Medal, and the 2015 expression is clear proof as to why. French oak maturation with sur lie aging, showing just enough varietal characteristics of apple and pineapple, this Chardonnay paired with fig and foie gras, literally had me in tears of the joy. I would love to experience this beauty after some time in the bottle. Unfortunately, I was so busy enjoying myself, that I forgot to grab a bottle for the trip home!
5) What was the biggest surprise you encountered in Bulgaria?
I feel I have to mention the gorgeous poppies that are blooming absolutely everywhere! Every road we ventured down was lined with these vibrant and bright blossoms, making for a truly enjoyable ride across the country.
However, the biggest surprise I encountered in Bulgaria was its history. Around every corner are poignant reminders of the threads of history, connecting the Bulgaria of today with that of yesterday. At the Bratanov winery, the property is home to a warehouse, now being restored for additional production and storage space, previously used for produce storage during the communist era. This structure represents a very conflicted time; of the strength of this once heavily relied upon industry, and also of the extreme difficulty the winemaking community faced in rediscovering its footing after Communism fell.
Beyond history, I was struck by the leading role that women are playing in the wine industry here. Maria Stoeva, chief winemaker for Bratanov, originally began her studies in Bulgaria, but then earned a scholarship to complete her studies in Burgundy. In 2016, she was named Winemaker of the Year, as Bratanov became recognized as the 1st winery in Bulgaria to produce its wines with 100% native yeast fermentation. Maria’s intuitive relationship with the vine and the winemaking process alike is truly inspiring.
Anelia Hristakieva from Salla Estate is also leading the charge, creating wines with delicacy and purity of fruit. In order to preserve primary aromas in her expressive whites, she combines traditional viticulture (ie. hand-harvesting and sorting) with modern technology in vinification (pneumatic press). Her 2015 Riesling, aged in 50% new French oak, and 50% neutral oak, was awarded the #3 wine in Bulgaria in that vintage. Anelia clearly creates with passion, and as a result, produces highly regarded wines with great finesse.
6. What kind of wines would you be looking to see coming from Bulgaria in the next years?
I think expressions of international grape varietals will be first, like Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, since familiarity encourages curiosity and exploration. This will hopefully open the door for some of the indigenous varietals I’ve listed above. Bulgaria is home to over 30 indigenous grapes, so even if none of the grapes I mentioned strike a chord, there’s something for everybody!
7) What are your expectations/predictions for the region’s development in the next several years?
Interest in new, less traditional styles of wine have increased in popularity with younger, more open-minded wine professionals, which has been a refreshing development in the industry as a whole. In addition, focused documentaries like Somm have opened up the conversation and increased understanding of what the wine industry has to offer, and this accessibility creates an alluring space for adventure seekers. With increased distribution and support from more wine professionals, Bulgaria may become the “next best thing”, offering new opportunities for young entrepreneurs to try their hand at winemaking alongside established winemakers who are finally starting to earn the recognition they deserve. I am fortunate to feel ahead of the curve in getting behind these wines, and will be that much more thrilled to see the trend explode around these “New Old World Wines”.
8) What is your “go to” Bulgarian wine for this summer?
I have two: the Vrantchanski Misket, with its tropical fruit and texture, and Orange Wine Sauvignon Blanc, with its peachy, pear complexity. I love them both!
9) What is your advice for anyone who is curious to try Bulgarian wines?
Don’t just get curious, get a bottle! These wines are not available everywhere, but I suggest seeking them out. Inquire with your local wine retailer, who should point you in the direction of a bottle based on your personal preferences. Start with an international varietal that is familiar to you, or, if you’re adventurous like me, jump in and enjoy one of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals.
10) What would be the name of your first article on Bulgaria on your page?
You’ll have to wait and see!
